China, Birthplace of Tea
Ever since its lucky "discovery" by Emperor Chen Nung in 2737 B.C. (a leaf from a wild tea plant reportedly fell into his bowl of hot water), the first three thousand years in the history of tea were a purely and intensely Chinese affair.
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India - Nilgiri:
The high-grown black teas from the Nilgiri ("Blue Mountains" in
Tamil) of southern India are among the finest produced anywhere. Just as the
British officials of Calcutta took to the hills of Darjeeling for summer
coolness, Raj officials in Madras retreated to Ootacamund, or "Ooty,"
the hill station in the Nilgiri district, which remains today a picture-postcard
bit of England set amidst mountain mist and tea garden green. Experimental
plantings of China jat had been thriving since 1835 in the
elephant-infested Nilgiri Mountain jungles when the first tea plantation,
today's Coonoor Tea Estate, was opened up in 1854 by a certain Mr. Mann, who
planted Robert Fortune's China seeds.
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India - Darjeeling:
The main problem with Darjeeling tea is quantity: there will never be enough
to satisfy demand. The region is small and produces much less per acre than
Assam, for instance. It is colder and higher, growth is slow, and the crop
devilishly difficult to harvest. Even in a good year production amounts to only
twenty two million pounds or so, less than one percent of all the tea India
produces.
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India - Assam:
Assam is the single largest tea-growing region on earth, a rainy tropical
plain adjacent to Bangladesh and Burma bordering the Brahmaputra River. Assam
produces only black tea and proves that great tea does not always need to be
high-grown. Like Keemun or Taiwan oolong, this is low-grown tea and it deserves
its reputation as one of the world's strongest.
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Sri Lanka:
Small, green and fertile, Sri Lanka is about the size of the Republic of
Ireland and over half a million of its acres grow tea, which is the very juice
and sap of its economy. This acreage makes Sri Lanka the world's third largest
tea producer and some years its foremost tea exporter. Colombo is the largest of
the world's tea auctions. When Sri Lanka reverted to its original Sinhalese name
in 1972, it was decided to retain Ceylon as the name of its most famous product.
Almost all the tea produced is black, and much of this is superb.
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Japan:
Many theories exist as how tea was introduced into Japan. The most widely
accepted theory fixes the beginning of Japan's tea industry in the year 1191
when EISAI, a Buddhist monk, is thought to have planted seeds he brought from
China and then to have encouraged cultivation in other areas by extolling the
benefits of the beverage. For 500 years after its introduction to Japan, tea was
used in the powdered (matcha) form. Prior to the Endo period (1600-1868), the
consumption of tea was limited to the ruling class.
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Formosa:
China offers no glimpse of its sacred gardens, nor does it like to show its
large estates to foreigners. Moreover, these plantations often remain veiled in
mists or, as in Fujian province, hidden behind screens of smoke from the spruce
pine that yields its fragrance to Lapsang Souchong before wafting from the
factory chimney. The smoke only clears sixty miles to the east, in the sky over
the strait of Formosa, off the coast of Taiwan.
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